
Change Islands is a small island community between the mainland and the more densely populated Fogo Island. The only way for visitors to get there is by ferry. We have passed the island countless times on our way to Fogo, but never stopped there. We decided to visit, but under our own power, a kayak trip from Blackhead Cove on Fogo Island across to Change Islands - a distance of 7.5 km.

We got up early in the morning to check our gear and the weather. Unfortunately, the weather itself doesn't know what it will do from one minute to the next, so it is difficult to predict with any great accuracy. It was a lovely, calm day when we left Fogo for Blackhead Cove, with just a mild wind and somewhat calm sea. By the time we got a third of the way across the wind had picked up and the water was quite choppy. Halfway across we were struggling against wind and white caps.

Once we reached the sheltered coves on the far island it was less of a struggle. Still we were eager to reach land and stretch our legs for a bit. Our original plan was to kayak around to the main tickle, but instead we pulled up on the first stretch of beach we found. After such a challenging trip across we were very excited to see the brightly coloured house at the tip of the community. What we weren't excited to see were the dark clouds moving in.

Our plan was to have lunch and then explore for a bit. As it turned out, we ended up landing at the far end of the community. This gave us a chance to walk and see and bit of the town on our way to the restaurant.

Change Islands is a perfect picture of outport Newfoundland, with its brick red stages and weathered docks, lobster pots and fishing boats. We didn't see many people on our walk, but those we did see waved and nodded as we passed. It seemed eerily quiet, in fact, no doubt due to the low layer of dark clouds moving ever closer to the island.

I was completely charmed by the bridge that ran across the tickle. Wide enough for only one car, and a separate walkway for pedestrians, it looks like something that could have been built eighty years ago.

The rain started just as we reached the TLP Restaurant. They had a beautiful gazebo for outdoor dining, but not for today. We did grab a seat near the window so that we could look out across at the approaching weather. We hoped it would pass over before we had to head back across to Fogo Island. Until then we chatted with the restaurant owners and had a fantastic lunch of fish and chips. Our luck held out as the sun started to break through just as we were signing the guest book on our way out.

We braved the showers to explore a little more of the community before heading out. I wasn't planning to leave before seeing the Newfoundland Pony Refuge. The refuge was started to help bolster and protect the endangered Newfoundland Pony. Since its beginning in 2004, five foals have been born at the refuge.

Once the wind died down and it was safe to head out onto the water we made our way back to the beach. We had lots of curious company along the way, mostly of the four legged variety.

There was a bit of a swell on as we made our way back, but we made better time. We were soaking wet and salty and very tired from our adventure. It was quite a relief to see our own four legged welcoming committee. I will definitely go back to Change Islands, there was much we didn't get to see during our quick trip. Next time, though, I think we will take the ferry.